TO ENABLE A HORNBY SR 2-
For those, like myself, who have an 'older analogue' SR period layout set in the 1930's and 1940's without 'third rail electrification', there is no need to rush out to purchase and install that 'third rail'...! These 2-
The following ‘step by step’ description is for altering an old spare Hornby E2 0-
The body of this locomotive needs to be removed to expose the motorised chassis and is held in place by two small protruding hooks on the chassis at the front end, and a retaining clip (part of the chassis moulding) located centrally at the rear just above the buffer beam.
Turn the locomotive upside down and place in a secure ‘cradle’ to support it whilst working on the underside.
Locate the rear clip and, with gentle pressure, ease it away from the body. This will have the effect of allowing the chassis to ‘drop away’ from the body. When clear of the buffer beam, slowly withdraw the chassis backwards, so that the two locating lugs clear the front of the body, and the chassis will then be totally clear of the body.
Set aside the body for work to it later on.
To disengage the motor from the chassis, carefully withdraw the two copper strips (located on the same side) from their retaining channels. Behind the motor’s magnet, there is a screw that then needs to be removed, which will free up the motor ready for withdrawing from the chassis. By carefully lifting the motor upwards, the worm should then disengage from the gear wheel on the front set of wheels, and the complete motor assembly can then be removed successfully and kept as a spare one.
At this stage, the brown painted spoked driving wheels need to be repainted in black. This can be done by removing the screw to the centre driving wheels and the bar removed to allow easier access for painting. Once the paint has hardened, replace the bar and screw, and repeat this process for the other side. At this stage, it is worth checking that the chassis runs freely.
The now lightened chassis will need some additional weight added to compensate for the weight of the motor that has been removed, otherwise it could prove to be too light when being pushed along and especially when negotiating pointwork. I am lucky enough to have a roll of lead flashing left over from some building work, and this was cut into strips to fit in where the motor unit had been removed. An alternative would be to remove all wiring and the drive worm from the motor, and then screw the ‘disabled’ motor back into its original position.
The earlier style coupling bars on this model are extensions to the chassis moulding and will need to be cut off, if modern narrow ones are needed, after first removing the coupling hooks. The coupling slots will also have to be cut away. Bachmann’s longer couplings (36-